Style School: What is Selvedge Denim?

The term selvedge denim frequently appears when looking at jeans. Simply put, selvedge denim is a type of denim fabric woven with a self-finished edge, preventing the fabric from fraying. This edge is typically white with a red stripe and can be seen on the inside of jeans made from this fabric when the hem i turned up. To better understand the concept, let's take a look at the history behind denim production.

Selvedge Then and Now

No one would believe that jeans are made the same way as when Levi Strauss created the first version of the iconic 501 in the late 1800s. Production techniques and materials have evolved, as has the manufacturing of denim. Broadly speaking, the major turning point, or perhaps decline, of selvedge denim production came around the 1950s with the rise of the modern and far more efficient projectile loom. These looms replaced the classic shuttle looms previously used to weave selvedge denim. 

Today, however, we see a renewed demand for selvedge jeans, thanks to their durability, timelessness, and quality.

What is Selvedge Jeans? A pair of selvedge jeans is made from denim woven on an older type of loom, which creates a self-finished edge - an edge that prevents the fabric from fraying. This edge can be found on the inside of the trouser leg as a white and red-striped border.

Shuttle loom weaving selvedge denim at the Japanese weaving mill Japan Blue Co. Listen to the wonderful sound of the loom.

For those unfamiliar with different types of looms, it is important to know that the differences between these machines are significant. The projectile loom can weave a much wider fabric and at a faster pace than the old shuttle loom, which slowly produced narrower fabric pieces, typically ranging between 21 and 32 inches (textile production measurements are often given in inches).

The Term Selvedge

So, what do the looms mentioned above have to do with the term selvedge? To put it as simply as possible, selvedge denim is exclusively produced on the older type of loom (shuttle loom), which largely dissapeared when the more efficient projectile loom came into use.

The name selvedge comes from the way a shuttle loom weaves fabric, creating finished edges on both sides, known as self-edges, unlike modern looms, which cut the fabric at the edges, leaving a raw edge that must be finished separately.

Keep In Mind That… Selvedge denim is not the same as raw denim. Raw denim refers to fabric that has not been washed or distressed, whereas selvedge denim is defined by its self-finished edge and is only made on shuttle looms, while raw denim can be produced on any type of loom.

One advantage of the self-finished edge in selvedge denim is that it minimises the risk of fabric unravelling. However, the production process is more time-consuming and costly, and the fabric may contain more natural variations. These variations and textures add a unique charm - something the Japanese recognised in the latter half of the 20th century, leading them to become world leaders in selvedge denim production. Today, selvedge jeans from Japan are regarded as a mark of quality, although there are also several renowned manufacturers in countries such as the USA and Italy.

Why Selvedge?

✔ Durability
✔ Quality
✔ Timelessness
✔ Craftsmanship
✔ Reduces the risk of fraying or unravelling