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The ultimate dress watch

Is there a perfect watch to pair with a suit, and if so, which one? We explore what is to be considered and share useful tips and tricks.
Photos: Care of Carl & Gustaf Peterson Text: Joakim Rönnqvist
The ultimate dress watch

Similar to how you carefully choose shoes, belt and other accessories for your suit, you should care equally, about which watch you wear. Whether it's a working day at the office, a wedding or a New Year's party, the suit is often associated with a more formal and classic style. Therefore, it is important to choose a watch that complements the occasion.

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Are there any rules?

In today's society where dress codes have become more flexible and less strict, there are no longer steadfast rules for the type of watch that best pairs with the suit. It is increasingly accepted to see different types of watches, including sport and diving watches, paired with suits. Instead of following strict rules, it is more beneficial to adapt the watch to the occasion and your personal style.

As a rule of thumb, leather and metal straps are acceptable for most suits. Canvas, nato and other options should generally be kept for semi-formal or casual occasions. However, if the look is carefully pieced together, and the colour is well matched to your suit, there is a little more room for creativity.

 

Can I wear a diving watch with a suit?

Of course, you can wear your Submariner or Seamaster for the wedding, although we believe that there are better choices.

Compared to the fact that you rarely combine worn sneakers, wellies or other practical shoes with the fine suit. The same applies to the watch. If the watch is intended for professional diving, it might be best left next to your scuba diving kit.

However, remember, if James Bond can rock a diver's watch with his suit, so can you.

 

Choose a fine watch

It is common to select your "most expensive" watch for the suit because it feels the most exclusive, regardless of whether it is a 46mm chronograph with steel links. It is simply the most exclusive watch you own in your collection. Of course, the experience of an expensive and heavy watch can enhance the feeling of elegance - but I believe that this is an excellent opportunity to dare to choose a smaller watch instead. A smaller 34-38mm watch in a precious metal or steel case, preferably with a matching leather strap, can be an excellent choice.

The advantage of a slimmer watch is, first and foremost, that it smoothly fits under the shirt. In addition, it does not take over the attention from the clothing, which can easily happen if you wear a large watch that is visible on the outer sleeve of the blazer.

 

Don’t forget…

This is an excellent opportunity to pick up grandfather's old watch or a similar sentimental treasure. Older watches are usually smaller and often pair well with the suit. When you add the history and memories, your outfit is complete.

 

So what is the ultimate watch for a suit?

For me it's simple. An older family-owned gem from the mid-60s. Perhaps an Omega Seamaster 600, housed in a doublé case. The 34mm size means it can seamlessly pass underneath the shirt cuffs, and the knowledge that it has been worn by the family for generations at New Year’s parties, weddings and christenings makes it my ultimate suit watch. Which one is yours?

 

3 suit watches we recommend

    It's difficult to create a list without including the Datejust from Rolex. The perfectly balanced size of 36mm with a case that fits as well with a leather strap as with the accompanying steel links make it an excellent choice.

    A black leather strap, a sleek case with a monocoloured dial in either black or white. What more could you wish for? A choice that easily fits in even on more formal occasions.

      A fun choice for a relaxed price you don't need to be ashamed of.

      Read more: The perfect summer watches

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