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Cartier Santos: The watch that took Wall Street by storm
Rarely has a watch model undergone such a journey as the Cartier Santos. From being a pilot's watch to becoming a symbol of the financial world of Wall Street in the 80s. How did this transformation happen? Come along and discover the story behind this classic model.
Photo: Gustaf Peterson & Alamy
Text: Joakim Rönnqvist
The man behind the model name, Alberto Santos-Dumont, was born in 1873 in Brazil and grew up as the son of a coffee plantation owner. From a young age, he showed an interest in technology and innovation. His passion for flight grew when he moved to Paris, where he grew fascinated by the possibility of conquering the skies.
Throughout the 1890s, Santos-Dumont began experimenting with aerial vehicles and created several successful air balloons and airships. In 1901, he won the prestigious Deutsch de la Meurthe prize for flying around the Eiffel Tower in his airship No. 6. A couple of years later, his name would make history.
In the early 20th century, Alberto Santos-Dumont became acquainted with the jeweller and businessman Louis Cartier. By that time, Santos-Dumont had become a prominent aviator and innovator. He expressed his frustration to Louis Cartier and told of the difficulties he had in reading the time on his pocket watches during the flights.
Louis Cartier, wanting to help his friend, set to work on finding a solution. In 1904, he designed and created the iconic model now known as the Santos, named as a tribute to Alberto.
Throughout the 1890s, Santos-Dumont began experimenting with aerial vehicles and created several successful air balloons and airships. In 1901, he won the prestigious Deutsch de la Meurthe prize for flying around the Eiffel Tower in his airship No. 6. A couple of years later, his name would make history.
A new model is born
In the early 20th century, Alberto Santos-Dumont became acquainted with the jeweller and businessman Louis Cartier. By that time, Santos-Dumont had become a prominent aviator and innovator. He expressed his frustration to Louis Cartier and told of the difficulties he had in reading the time on his pocket watches during the flights.
Louis Cartier, wanting to help his friend, set to work on finding a solution. In 1904, he designed and created the iconic model now known as the Santos, named as a tribute to Alberto.
A design that stands out
What immediately catches the eye when looking at a Cartier Santos is its distinctive appearance. With its square housing and chamfered corners, the design plays seamlessly with geometry and symmetry. The visible screw on the bezel not only gives an industrial look but also a subtle touch of the mechanics behind the watch. Its stylish Roman numeral dial is in tribute to Cartier's heritage of luxury and finesse.
The stockbroker's favourite
During the 80s, when the stock market was going strong and the money was flowing in, one style icon stood out. Namely the fictional anti-hero Gordon Gekko from the movie Wall Street.
He personified the lifestyle with his slicked back hair, striped suits, suspenders and of course a gold Cartier Santos on his wrist. The style became so popular that sales of Cartier's Santos skyrocketed, and even today, there are plenty of 80s watches on the second-hand market.
Michael Douglas as Gordon Gecko wears a gold Cartier Santos in the film Wall Street, 1987. (Source: Alamy Stock Photos/20TH CENTURY FOX)
However, it’s not only well-dressed corporate people who loved the model. Even celebrities such as Pablo Picasso, Cary Grant and Andy Warhol have been seen wearing the watch over the years.
However, it’s not only well-dressed corporate people who loved the model. Even celebrities such as Pablo Picasso, Cary Grant and Andy Warhol have been seen wearing the watch over the years.
Tips and tricks before buying a watch
● Since the model is rectangular, it may appear larger on the wrist. Therefore, try a smaller size than you would normally choose.● Cartier's greatness lies primarily in the design and not always in complicated watch movements. You can choose their battery-powered variants, which are often affordable and relatively cheap to maintain.
● Wear the watch with the links, or match it elegantly with a leather strap in brown or black.
Selected models to look out for
Cartier Santos de Cartier from the 80s (Reference number: 1170901)A classic model from the 1980s. It has a rectangular case and a design that reflects the era.
Cartier Santos Galbée from the 90s (Reference number: 187901)
A model that debuted in the 1990s and represents a more rounded aesthetic. With its soft lines and elegant curves, it is suitable for most occasions.
Cartier Santos de Cartier Large 2020s (Reference number: WSSA0018)
A modern interpretation of Santos with updated features and materials. It retains the classic design but has an updated movement and links to meet today's performance and style demands.
For many, Santos is the perfect "one watch" as it goes with most styles and clothing choices. You can wear it with swimming trunks on the beach or with your pinstripe suit in the boardroom. No matter what you choose, it fits well.
