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Cartier Tank: The watch that conquered the world
In this article, our watch expert looks into the history of Cartier's Tank model: its design, history and the style icons who wore it.
Photo: Gustaf Peterson
Text: Joakim Rönnqvist
The Cartier Tank’s design has remained largely unchanged for more than a century and continues to be an important piece for many collectors and style enthusiasts. How did the model become so popular and where did the idea for the design come from? Follow a story that begins during the First World War.
Inspired by a Europe at war
Imagine creating a product over 100 years ago, which still stylistically functions the same as it did then. That's exactly what Louis Cartier did in 1917. During the First World War, he took inspiration from aerial photographs of the tanks crossing the fateful battlefields of France and Belgium, and with their help he created the Tank model.
It is said that the armoured Renault FT-17 was the basis for the design. The tank, well known for its rectangular shape and clear lines, which are reflected in the appearance of the Tank watch.
Today, the word "Tank" is so strongly associated with the design that several competitors and watch enthusiasts use the word to describe other rectangular watches. If you call your watch a Tank, most watch enthusiasts understand what this means.
Details of the Tank
Besides the obvious in the design, there are some characteristic features of a classic Tank.
The dial usually features Roman numerals. Inside the numbers is a double rectangular "track loop" that marks the minutes. Which is said to resemble a railway track.
The crown, which is used to wind up the watch, is adorned with a blue sapphire. A subtle nod to Cartier's history as jewellers.
A favourite among style icons
The model quickly became popular among celebrities and fashion enthusiasts alike, thanks to its varying sizes and elegant design, which has made it a sought-after accessory for both men and women.
Below are three famous people who owned Tank watches and how they styled them:
Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis
Jacqueline was known for her elegant, timeless style. She often styled her Tank watch with simple, well-tailored dresses, pearl necklaces and fine handbags, giving her a classic look.
Andy Warhol
The well-known artist Andy Warhol was known for his idiosyncratic style. Warhol often styled his Tank watch with casual clothes, such as black polo shirts, jeans and a pair of stylish glasses. By combining the watch with his signature style, Warhol created a unique and memorable look.
He also coined the famous words: "I don't wear a (Cartier) Tank watch to keep track of the time. In fact, I never wind it up. I wear a Tank because it's the watch to wear."
Princess Diana
One of the most loved members of the British royal family, wore a Cartier Tank and styled it in a way that suited her well-tailored style. She often wore her watch with beautiful dresses and suits, complemented with pearl earrings and bracelets.
Tips and advice before buying a watch
- Keep in mind that the Tank model may feel larger on the wrist due to its rectangular shape. Feel free to try a smaller size than you would normally choose.- Another fun tip is to buy a joint watch for the household. The model fits most situations, and with a size suitable for most wrists. It is a perfect model to buy and then use alternately.
- Most Cartier Tank watches are excellent for formal occasions and go well with different types of leather straps. They are easy to match with clothes and other accessories.
Selected models to explore
Tank Normale
The original model of the Cartier Tank introduced in 1917. It is characterised by its rectangular case and minimalist design. With its rectilinear shape and classic aesthetic, the Tank Normale has become a favourite watch design among many an enthusiast.
Tank Cintree
A more tapered and elongated version of the Tank model, with a curved shape that wraps around the wrist for a more ergonomic fit. Launched in the 1920s, this model is known for its elegant and striking design that highlights its Art Deco-inspired aesthetic.
Tank Louis Cartier
A luxurious and timeless variation of the Cartier Tank named after Louis Cartier. It is characterised by its striking resemblance to the original Tank Normale, with the addition of refined material choices that give the watch an exclusive feel.
More than 100 years have passed, and yet it remains as relevant as ever. Cartier Tank is a watch that clearly suits all occasions and is loved by many, regardless of gender or style.
