Guides 18.06.2026

How to Fold a Handkerchief

A pocket square in the breast pocket of a blazer significantly elevates your style. When folded and matched correctly, it becomes a subtle and elegant detail without appearing pretentious or drawing too much attention. Here, we offer you five useful tips on how to get it just right..

Text: Mikael Vallin

style advice accessories Wedding Pocket square Pocket Squares

There are many different ways to fold a pocket square, where the material of the square sometimes makes certain folds more suitable than others. The more often you wear a pocket square, the bolder the fold you will become comfortable with. However, as in so many other contexts, "less is more" is often the winning concept. Don't make it more complicated than necessary.

Often, it suffices to have a narrow, straight edge of the pocket square sticking up a centimeter or two above and along the edge of the breast pocket. The thinner and more pliable the material of the pocket square, the better it is suited for more "puffy" folds. Make sure you don't wear a pocket square that is too large or thick in a pocket that is too small, to avoid creating a bulky lump on the jacket's breast.

Puff with a flap

A slightly carelessly stuffed handkerchief, which is more or less just pushed down into the breast pocket and then adjusted a bit. The folding suits handkerchiefs made of thin materials like silk and modal. Yvig blomma

Lush flower

A slightly flamboyant and very informal "fold," which also works best for handkerchiefs made of thin and lightweight fabrics. Adjust how much of the fabric hangs over the edge to your liking.

Flat Clean Fold

A very good everyday fold that doesn't draw too much attention. It also pairs well with a white cotton handkerchief when wearing a dark suit, creating a neat yet lively impression. Just as suitable for handkerchiefs made from silk as well as cotton and linen fabrics, and its width should be adjusted according to the width of the jacket's breast pocket. Feel free to use it with a white cotton handkerchief for a tuxedo.

Puff fold

A very simple and effective folding technique that is best suited for handkerchiefs made of thin and supple fabric qualities. The casual appearance works well in everyday contexts, both at work and in leisure time.

Formal Fold

A folding style that many prefer for the white cotton handkerchief in the breast pocket of a tuxedo or tailcoat. Experiment with different ways to achieve the number of peaks, using various fabric qualities and types of handkerchiefs.

How to Think When Choosing a Pocket Square?

Using a pocket square in the breast pocket of a blazer is a natural part of a dressed yet relaxed men’s style. The appearance and feel of wearing a pocket square depend on several factors: the color and pattern combination with the blazer and shirt, as well as the material of the pocket square and how you fold it.

- As a starting point, consider that a discreet color makes wearing it easier. A pocket square in navy blue, brown, gray, with touches of light blue works excellently when wearing a blue shirt.

- A patterned pocket square is often easier to wear than a solid one, as it can harmonize with several elements of your outfit. Patterns like paisley, polka dots, or florals are usually easy to carry. Feel free to let the pocket square have hints of white if you're wearing a white shirt.

- Matte materials like cotton, wool, linen, and blends of these make the pocket square more subtly discreet and easier to wear. Many mistakenly believe that a bright red silk pocket square is the best option to start with, but it can actually be quite difficult to wear as it creates a strong visual contrast with the rest of your outfit.

- A white pocket square made of cotton or linen works in most cases.The pocket square should not be a strong focal point, but rather a softly harmonizing and beautifully complementary style detail in your outfit.

Experiment, try different folds and materials to find your favorite combinations.