Guides 06.09.2022

Shoe Care - Caring for Suede and Nubuck

It is a common misconception that suede is harder to maintain than other materials. In fact, both suede and nubuck are some of the easiest materials to look after. In very general terms, a pair of suede or nubuck shoes will only need to be treated around once a month with a suede protector spray. This can be complemented by a more thorough cleaning once a year or even less, depending on the model. Se our step-by-step-guide here.

Text: Mikael Vallin Video: Patrik Johansson

Mikael Vallin loafers Care with Carl Suede Shoe Care moccasins

Cleaning Suede:

STEP 1:

What you need:

- Suede cleaner
- Applicator brush
- Bowl of water
- Sink

STEP 2: Brush your shoes

Before you start, it is always a good idea to insert a shoe tree. Always begin by giving the shoes a once-over with a suede brush. The best suede brushes use metal, raw rubber or sometimes even both. Don’t worry if the colour appears to change when brushing, as this is just the result of the fibres being moved in different directions. You can decide yourself which way you wish the fibres to face.

STEP 3: Mix water and suede cleaner

Begin by mixing a small amount of cleaner in a bowl with room-temperature water. Aim for a 50:50 ratio. You should use a dedicated cleaner such as Saphir’s Omni’Nettoyant which can be used on suede, nubuck and fabric shoes.

STEP 4: Apply the mixture

Apply the mixture of water and suede cleaner to the shoe. Dip an applicator brush into the mixture and begin working the cleaner into the material. Once completed, let the cleaner take effect for a couple of minutes.

STEP 5: Wash under water

Wash them under running water and brushing clean. Try to make sure to brush along the grain of the fibres as this will make the following steps easier. Be careful not to let too much water into the shoe or to have them under the tap for too long – an abundance of water is rarely good for leather materials.

STEP 6: Leave to dry

Before leaving the shoes to dry, pull out the shoe tree about halfway or remove completely to avoid stretching the wet material while drying. Leave the shoes to dry, avoiding direct heat, as drying out too quickly may cause the material to split.

STEP 7: Use suede brush

The next morning, your shoes may look a bit tired and worn. In this case, you should brush them with a suede brush and treat them with a pigmented waterproofing spray. We will discuss this in more detail in the next section.

Equipment:

Waterproofing:

STEP 1:

Start by brushing with a suede brush to remove any remaining dirt. Apply the spray outside or in a well-ventilated area.

STEP 2:

Spray your shoes using a waterproofing spray such as Saphir’s Renovateur. A spray containing pigment will help to restore the colour of your shoes. Bear in mind that a tone that is slightly too light is better than one that is too dark.